Having trouble straight shaft.
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This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
Having trouble straight shaft.
Man guys I'm having trouble straightening these wood shafts. It because the wood is to hard. But I guess I can't comprehend where exactly the end is. I have a spinner as well and I can see it wobbles but how do you spot where the work needs to be done at. Any tips from y'all guys ? Oh and I got a cool pi for my avatar as soon as I get on the lab top and resize pic
- Shadowhntr
- Posts: 4614
- Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:47 pm
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
What are you using to do the actual straightening with?
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Just a deodorant stick. I seen clay Hayes on YouTube using something simple like that
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Well actually it's just a round can like a wd-40 can and a little hand straighting I just can't seem to get it right.
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Only advice I can say is less pressure is better. If you find a high spot just do one stoke with medium to light pressure and check it again. It doesn't usually take much.
Goodnight Chesty Wherever You Are.
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Thanks I guess it's gonna take a bit to get it right
- Shadowhntr
- Posts: 4614
- Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:47 pm
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Cody, I certainly don't want you shooting something you aren't confident in....and it's hard to tell how bad it is without seeing it first hand. So....what I'll do is take you through what I personally do with wood shafts to straighten. All I do, is look down the shaft with my eye close, looking for curve or straightness. To do this, as I'm eyeballing down the shaft, I slowly rotate the shaft between my thumb and first finger. What I'm looking for is if in deed there is a small curve in the shaft, I try to find the high spot or better worded the outside bend of the curve. I then place the heel of my hand on the center of that high spot, and grab the shaft just ahead of it with my fingers of the same hand. At same time I hold steady the end near my eye with other hand. Then I simply flex the shaft a little, using my hands heel as a lever or fulcrum. It may take me 3 or 4 trys flexing it to get it to stay. I simply do this inspecting over the whole shaft. Then I turn and hold the opposite end and repeat the process.
A couple things to remember.
One, you are into doing a more primitive art. Imagine how much more straight your arrow will be even with a little bit of untrueness, then what primitive people's arrows were. Do you think they still worked good enough to kill their food with?
Secondly, We as modern archers sometimes gruel over anything less then what modern materials can provide (carbon,aluminum). It's possible to get woods to be very true...but it takes a lot of practice, know how, luck, and the right tools. I dont go that route, which is a fine one. I can tell you my arrows had a small wobble in most of them on a spin test, yet I continually robin hood them and bust nocks so often its aggrevating as heck. I have also killed my share of big Kansas whitetails with them same woods that wobbled a lil bit.
If you got them from Surewood, did you get premium grade shafts? Normally there isn't much to do to them premiums, because them guys also hand straighten exactly like I do.
Dont get me wrong...a bad wobble needs dealt with... but a small one you wont notice shooting. What I recommend is get it as good as you can, build it up bare wood, and start the tuning process. Once it's flying straight you'll wonder how it's possible with that lil wobble you seen on the spin tester. Bamboo and cane are notoriously wobbly....but they find center, and spin true to the mark anyway.
Dont get discouraged by trying to perfect the fir shafts, do as good as you can, and then watch the wood work for you.
If you need a better idea on hand straightening I can do a pictorial or I think 3Rivers has a great instructional on it. Remember...keep it simple.
A couple things to remember.
One, you are into doing a more primitive art. Imagine how much more straight your arrow will be even with a little bit of untrueness, then what primitive people's arrows were. Do you think they still worked good enough to kill their food with?
Secondly, We as modern archers sometimes gruel over anything less then what modern materials can provide (carbon,aluminum). It's possible to get woods to be very true...but it takes a lot of practice, know how, luck, and the right tools. I dont go that route, which is a fine one. I can tell you my arrows had a small wobble in most of them on a spin test, yet I continually robin hood them and bust nocks so often its aggrevating as heck. I have also killed my share of big Kansas whitetails with them same woods that wobbled a lil bit.
If you got them from Surewood, did you get premium grade shafts? Normally there isn't much to do to them premiums, because them guys also hand straighten exactly like I do.
Dont get me wrong...a bad wobble needs dealt with... but a small one you wont notice shooting. What I recommend is get it as good as you can, build it up bare wood, and start the tuning process. Once it's flying straight you'll wonder how it's possible with that lil wobble you seen on the spin tester. Bamboo and cane are notoriously wobbly....but they find center, and spin true to the mark anyway.
Dont get discouraged by trying to perfect the fir shafts, do as good as you can, and then watch the wood work for you.
If you need a better idea on hand straightening I can do a pictorial or I think 3Rivers has a great instructional on it. Remember...keep it simple.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Shadowhntr wrote:Cody, I certainly don't want you shooting something you aren't confident in....and it's hard to tell how bad it is without seeing it first hand. So....what I'll do is take you through what I personally do with wood shafts to straighten. All I do, is look down the shaft with my eye close, looking for curve or straightness. To do this, as I'm eyeballing down the shaft, I slowly rotate the shaft between my thumb and first finger. What I'm looking for is if in deed there is a small curve in the shaft, I try to find the high spot or better worded the outside bend of the curve. I then place the heel of my hand on the center of that high spot, and grab the shaft just ahead of it with my fingers of the same hand. At same time I hold steady the end near my eye with other hand. Then I simply flex the shaft a little, using my hands heel as a lever or fulcrum. It may take me 3 or 4 trys flexing it to get it to stay. I simply do this inspecting over the whole shaft. Then I turn and hold the opposite end and repeat the process.
A couple things to remember.
One, you are into doing a more primitive art. Imagine how much more straight your arrow will be even with a little bit of untrueness, then what primitive people's arrows were. Do you think they still worked good enough to kill their food with?
Secondly, We as modern archers sometimes gruel over anything less then what modern materials can provide (carbon,aluminum). It's possible to get woods to be very true...but it takes a lot of practice, know how, luck, and the right tools. I dont go that route, which is a fine one. I can tell you my arrows had a small wobble in most of them on a spin test, yet I continually robin hood them and bust nocks so often its aggrevating as heck. I have also killed my share of big Kansas whitetails with them same woods that wobbled a lil bit.
If you got them from Surewood, did you get premium grade shafts? Normally there isn't much to do to them premiums, because them guys also hand straighten exactly like I do.
Dont get me wrong...a bad wobble needs dealt with... but a small one you wont notice shooting. What I recommend is get it as good as you can, build it up bare wood, and start the tuning process. Once it's flying straight you'll wonder how it's possible with that lil wobble you seen on the spin tester. Bamboo and cane are notoriously wobbly....but they find center, and spin true to the mark anyway.
Dont get discouraged by trying to perfect the fir shafts, do as good as you can, and then watch the wood work for you.
If you need a better idea on hand straightening I can do a pictorial or I think 3Rivers has a great instructional on it. Remember...keep it simple.
- Shadowhntr
- Posts: 4614
- Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:47 pm
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
- Shadowhntr
- Posts: 4614
- Joined: Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:47 pm
Re: Having trouble straight shaft.
Have you studied about the wood grain direction for positioning or timing the nock with the "V's" in the wood grain?
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.