Bow tuning
Bow tuning
No Wrenches or set screws involved but sometimes the simple longbow can be complicated, at least for a simple minded fellow like me. As you may remember from other post I have been struggling with my new bow trying to get it to shoot the arrow spine that it should. Then I posted about leaving an edge and had to replace my string. Here is where it got complicated. Since making a new string my bow was louder and wasn't shooting as well as before. I changed brace height and nock point until I was ready to scream to no avail. In my aggravation I came back and just made a whole new string! I also took a break to rest my arms and to feed my face. I checked in here and it looked like you all had forsaken me! So to the gang I went. I saw and read a thread by Graps over there about the effects of string silencers on bow tuning, that's when the lights came on. I couldn't wait to get back out and test it out. Sure enough I moved the location of the silencers on the string and bingo! I got more playing to do with this but I am learning, yesterday's lesson was that the placement of silencers can greatly effect bow tuning. Anyone ever dealt with this?
Re: Bow tuning
Hmmm dunno. Watching this thread with interest.
Nothing clears a troubled mind like shooting a bow.
- Shadowhntr
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Re: Bow tuning
I've seen silencers make a difference in tuning....ive also seen bow quivers make a difference too. Through some testing over the years, my general thought about this is, if those things make more then a minor difference, then often times the spine tuning was borderline. But by all means, take advantage of everything you can to get straight consistent arrow flight....whatever works Tony. Deer/turkeys/hogs,,, wont mind at all, as to HOW you got straight flying arrows!
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
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Re: Bow tuning
I've never experienced any issues; but then all I ever did was install them and shoot. Never experimented. You may well be on to something.
Aim small, miss small!
Re: Bow tuning
I read something once about string harmonics that suggested putting them 1/4 from the tip on the top limb and 1/3 from the tip on the bottom, every bow is a bit different but I found this to be a good rule of thumb for me. I have never tried tuning via string or silencers but I have heard of others doing it. Makes sense to me that if your arrows are a tad weak adding strands to the string or adding more silencers could fix the issue.
Re: Bow tuning
Got this from TBM tip of the month, head scratcher.
This tip requires a bit of radio theory and brain work. The subject is heterodyning. A very basic definition is two different frequencies that are combined to produce two new frequencies: the sum and difference of the two original frequencies. What does this have to do with traditional archery equipment? Well, knowing this fact helps us to quiet our bows.
Most of us have tried various types of string silencers. Some folks have trouble getting any of them to work. Here is the solution, no matter the type of bow or type of silencer material. Measure the distance from where the string leaves the bow limbs top and bottom. Divide that distance by four and also by three. For instance and simplicity let us say your measured length is 60 inches; 60 divided by four equals 15 inches and divided by three equals 20 inches.
Attach your top string silencer 15 inches down from where the string leaves the bow, and attach the bottom silencer 20 inches up from where it leaves the bow. Doing so cancels out the sustaining frequencies that would make a naked string hum or twang when released. The quartering distance (15 inches) cancels out all even multiples of the frequencies and the distance in thirds cancels out all the odd multiples of the frequencies. The end result is a string that resists vibration after the shot and goes thump instead of twang.
This tip requires a bit of radio theory and brain work. The subject is heterodyning. A very basic definition is two different frequencies that are combined to produce two new frequencies: the sum and difference of the two original frequencies. What does this have to do with traditional archery equipment? Well, knowing this fact helps us to quiet our bows.
Most of us have tried various types of string silencers. Some folks have trouble getting any of them to work. Here is the solution, no matter the type of bow or type of silencer material. Measure the distance from where the string leaves the bow limbs top and bottom. Divide that distance by four and also by three. For instance and simplicity let us say your measured length is 60 inches; 60 divided by four equals 15 inches and divided by three equals 20 inches.
Attach your top string silencer 15 inches down from where the string leaves the bow, and attach the bottom silencer 20 inches up from where it leaves the bow. Doing so cancels out the sustaining frequencies that would make a naked string hum or twang when released. The quartering distance (15 inches) cancels out all even multiples of the frequencies and the distance in thirds cancels out all the odd multiples of the frequencies. The end result is a string that resists vibration after the shot and goes thump instead of twang.
Re: Bow tuning
My last post above (copied) has to do with sound only. My current issue is silencers also affecting performance. Anyone else experience this? Please educate me.
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Re: Bow tuning
15/20 inches is WAY down from where most silencers are attached (usually within 1 inch of the contact point) Hmmm?
Aim small, miss small!
Re: Bow tuning
20 Inches is where mine are now and it worked, made a lot of difference in sound.
Re: Bow tuning
Captainkirk wrote:15/20 inches is WAY down from where most silencers are attached (usually within 1 inch of the contact point) Hmmm?
that is about exactly how I have the woolies set up on my 60" longbow
1/4 down from the top and 1/3 up from the bottom