im switching to carbon.......Captainkirk wrote:Yes, but you could also do point and nock tapers.Shadowhntr wrote:I mean back tapers...
Things I Learned About Woodies
Forum rules
This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
Nothing clears a troubled mind like shooting a bow.
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Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
What do you woody masters think would be better for these stats 51@28, shelf cut just shy over center, ff string, 29" Bop with 125gn tip. Think 55-60 or 60-65 or something else?
Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
Probably 60-65 with the just cut passed center part. That would be my guess.
Nothing clears a troubled mind like shooting a bow.
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Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
I've got to go with a 55/60 .
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
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Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
Not enough info. Longbow, recurve, R/D? Make and model of bow?
Without that I would take a stab at 55/60 but the particulars make a difference.
Without that I would take a stab at 55/60 but the particulars make a difference.
Aim small, miss small!
Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
Honestly could probably make either work.
Nothing clears a troubled mind like shooting a bow.
Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
r/d longbow its my pika, thinking i should toss some woods through it too.
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Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
To be perfectly honest, your best option would be to buy the 3Rivers test kit; 2 arrows covering 4 different spines...and see which one flies best out of your bow, No guesswork, and you have the test kit for future bow questions.
That is, 4 different spine ranges, two of each.
That is, 4 different spine ranges, two of each.
Aim small, miss small!
- Shadowhntr
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Re: Things I Learned About Woodies
I think Kirk has the best solution....test kit is always the safe bet.
As Dave pointed out, both will probably work...all depends on your flexibility with the tuned length. Many times I go up one spine weight bracket more then I figure, but that is with heavier heads. Charts and such that give us a good base, traditionally are started and based off the 125gr head....so using a 125gr head makes it fairly easy to look at the figures and feel reasonably confident. Another thing is, that Toelke bow is going to be way more forgiving then say a non center cut bow, in what arrows it shoots well because of the riser/shelf design. In the end though, your release and bow tuning can impact what arrow spine you need as well. Over the years I've aquired enough wood shafts to have my own store of "test kits"...lol. It's a pain storing xtra arrows and shafts but come tuning time its nice
As Dave pointed out, both will probably work...all depends on your flexibility with the tuned length. Many times I go up one spine weight bracket more then I figure, but that is with heavier heads. Charts and such that give us a good base, traditionally are started and based off the 125gr head....so using a 125gr head makes it fairly easy to look at the figures and feel reasonably confident. Another thing is, that Toelke bow is going to be way more forgiving then say a non center cut bow, in what arrows it shoots well because of the riser/shelf design. In the end though, your release and bow tuning can impact what arrow spine you need as well. Over the years I've aquired enough wood shafts to have my own store of "test kits"...lol. It's a pain storing xtra arrows and shafts but come tuning time its nice
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.