Let's build a bow
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No selling of traditional bows you manufactured. Only sponsors are allowed to post new bows for sale.
Let's build a bow
Well my wood is in and I'll be getting started this weekend or so that's the plan. I have gone over the bow draw weight chart at bingham projects for the 68" long bow, but it doesn't specify width. I'm wanting to build a hill style bow and I am looking for any dimensions designs and advice you're willing to share before I start. I will be using flat bar welded to some angle iron for my jig and I have access to my dads hot box. I'm hoping to have the draw weight around 55-60 lbs. Thanks again and I'll keep this as up to date as I can
Thanks Trell
Thanks Trell
Re: Let's build a bow
Looking forward to this. I'm no help with this kinda stuff but hopefully someone will chime in'
Carpdaddy and or Elkman might be able to help. I'm sure they will show up eventually on here.
Carpdaddy and or Elkman might be able to help. I'm sure they will show up eventually on here.
"Maybe the truly handicapped people are the ones that don't need God as much." ~ Joni Eareckson Tada
Re: Let's build a bow
Been too long since we have had a build along on here, I am out of commission on that right now, to much dust already in these old lungs!
Binghams chart is good if you follow their design on the blueprints they sell, there are many variables though, but shouldn’t be bad on a Hill style bow. My first glass bow came out over 100lb draw, I didn’t know about places like this to get advice. The standard longbow width is 1.5”, recurves are 1.75-2”, so I would think the chart is for a one and a half inch width. Since your Dad has a hotbox I’m guessing he has bowbuilding experience? If so be sure to pump him for info as much as you can. Is this your first bow build? If so take your time and don’t rush this, ask lots of questions, and hopefully someone smarter than me on the subject will chime in.
Binghams chart is good if you follow their design on the blueprints they sell, there are many variables though, but shouldn’t be bad on a Hill style bow. My first glass bow came out over 100lb draw, I didn’t know about places like this to get advice. The standard longbow width is 1.5”, recurves are 1.75-2”, so I would think the chart is for a one and a half inch width. Since your Dad has a hotbox I’m guessing he has bowbuilding experience? If so be sure to pump him for info as much as you can. Is this your first bow build? If so take your time and don’t rush this, ask lots of questions, and hopefully someone smarter than me on the subject will chime in.
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Re: Let's build a bow
Will be watching with keen interest, Trell. Never built a bow myself, but watched Carpdaddy build a few on here. Always interesting and entertaining.
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Re: Let's build a bow
Can't wait to see the results!
Re: Let's build a bow
Looks like you have your glass and core laminations at a predetermined thickness. Ready to glue up.
As Tony already pointed out.
After gluing and cleaning up the edges you may end up at about 1 7/16" or even down to 1 3/8". It depends on how flush all the lams are at glue up.
The narrower you get in the area of the fade outs the more weight you will drop off the bow. Even along the length of the limbs. You can use that to help get you down to weight if you need to. It is tough because it effects the tiller and balance of the limbs. Caution! Do this as a last resort and remove very little at a time.
To start I would get or make a template for the riser shape and the limbs.
For the limbs you can make one that is 36" long and tapers from 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" down to about 1/2" evenly on both sides of a center line. Leave at least 1/2" at the string grooves.
For your riser shape there are many options just make sure that your taper down to the fadeouts isn't to steep.
As Tony already pointed out.
Is your question mainly asking about the width of the finished bow? I have seen longbow widths down to 1 1/8".
After gluing and cleaning up the edges you may end up at about 1 7/16" or even down to 1 3/8". It depends on how flush all the lams are at glue up.
The narrower you get in the area of the fade outs the more weight you will drop off the bow. Even along the length of the limbs. You can use that to help get you down to weight if you need to. It is tough because it effects the tiller and balance of the limbs. Caution! Do this as a last resort and remove very little at a time.
To start I would get or make a template for the riser shape and the limbs.
For the limbs you can make one that is 36" long and tapers from 1 3/8" - 1 1/2" down to about 1/2" evenly on both sides of a center line. Leave at least 1/2" at the string grooves.
For your riser shape there are many options just make sure that your taper down to the fadeouts isn't to steep.
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€
Re: Let's build a bow
Sorry it's been so long but I did finally get around to starting this build. I got some square tube and flat bar welded together for my jig. The wood is all glued and wrapped and now it's a waiting game for it to dry up and see what I have to work with. After I unwrap it I will start drawing out my idea for a pattern then get to sanding.
Thanks again for the help and before I go to cutting and sanding I'm sure I'll have some more questions.
Thanks again for the help and before I go to cutting and sanding I'm sure I'll have some more questions.
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Re: Let's build a bow
I'm watching with interest.
I don't know how to build a bow.
I don't know how to build a bow.
"Maybe the truly handicapped people are the ones that don't need God as much." ~ Joni Eareckson Tada
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Re: Let's build a bow
Trell, were you able to get your dad's heat box?
If so, how did he have his box setup? There are a number of ways it could be done. Just curious.
Using the heat box will cut the curing time down to just a few hours when using Smooth-On EA-40. Using heat, 150° or better, to cure the epoxy will also give your bow better heat resistance when exposed to heat greater than room temperature such as a hot vehicle on a sunny day. Using heat also improves the strength of the epoxy.
Looking forward to hearing and seeing more.
If so, how did he have his box setup? There are a number of ways it could be done. Just curious.
Using the heat box will cut the curing time down to just a few hours when using Smooth-On EA-40. Using heat, 150° or better, to cure the epoxy will also give your bow better heat resistance when exposed to heat greater than room temperature such as a hot vehicle on a sunny day. Using heat also improves the strength of the epoxy.
Looking forward to hearing and seeing more.
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€