Don't know how to tell you this , but I think you made them arras backwards .
They spose to point the other way .
Painted arrows
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This forum is for discussing the history of archery. The collecting of antique and collectible traditional archery items. Not for selling items or trading. Not for selling items you manufactured unless you are a sponsor.
Re: Painted arrows
"Maybe the truly handicapped people are the ones that don't need God as much." ~ Joni Eareckson Tada
Re: Painted arrows
Great looking arrows Kirk!
Re: Painted arrows
I have found a layer of paint to weigh about 10 grains YMMV
Nice looking arrows Kirk!
Nice looking arrows Kirk!
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Re: Painted arrows
That could explain it, then...there are at least 2 layers of white and 2 layers of orange on each arrow.Longtrad wrote:I have found a layer of paint to weigh about 10 grains YMMV
Nice looking arrows Kirk!
Aim small, miss small!
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Re: Painted arrows
After all is said and done...the painted look is kinda growing on me. It might be very interesting to try out some other color combos, but how many dozen arrows does one really need hanging around the house, anyway?
If I had to do it over again?
*I would DEFINITELY allow the different color coats (white/color) to fully cure for several days between white base and color. And while none of the white Rustoleum never came off down to bare wood, there were numerous spots where the orange came off exposing white basecoat.
*As per above, "there is no fire", hence no need to rush painting. Let the damn paint dry and fully cure!
*The cresting (Testor's) enamel....especially the black...should have been thinned.It went on too thick on several arrows.
*If shaft weight uniformity is critical, pay very close attention to how much paint you apply. You can fine-tune weight by adding a layer of paint.
*Fletch-Tite will remove most enamels due to the MEK content. Make sure to do all your fletching jig adjustment and tweaking PRIOR to applying Fletch-Tite, and make sure you allow paint to cure before fletching...or use the Bohning fletch tape.
*If using Super Glue for nock adhesion, make absolutely sure they are where you want them because removing a Super-glued nock will not only destroy the nock, buy also might remove some wood along with it. (ask me how I know)
*The Bitz instructions tell you to rotate the indexing knob clockwise, Don't do this, as it turns your newly glued fletching right into the magnets (duh!) Rotate COUNTER-clockwise!
*While Bohning says you can remove the clamp after 5 minutes after adhesion when using Fletch-Tite, it's best to wait 20 minutes. Don't get in a hurry. Again; there is no fire. Go have a beer.
*Marco Snap-On nocks will drag on the nock index hole on the Bitz, You really have to push hard for proper seating.
Painted arrows definitely have the nostalgic look and feel for your older bow, and offer something out of the ordinary at the 3D range. I recommend everyone with woodies have at least a few!
If I had to do it over again?
*I would DEFINITELY allow the different color coats (white/color) to fully cure for several days between white base and color. And while none of the white Rustoleum never came off down to bare wood, there were numerous spots where the orange came off exposing white basecoat.
*As per above, "there is no fire", hence no need to rush painting. Let the damn paint dry and fully cure!
*The cresting (Testor's) enamel....especially the black...should have been thinned.It went on too thick on several arrows.
*If shaft weight uniformity is critical, pay very close attention to how much paint you apply. You can fine-tune weight by adding a layer of paint.
*Fletch-Tite will remove most enamels due to the MEK content. Make sure to do all your fletching jig adjustment and tweaking PRIOR to applying Fletch-Tite, and make sure you allow paint to cure before fletching...or use the Bohning fletch tape.
*If using Super Glue for nock adhesion, make absolutely sure they are where you want them because removing a Super-glued nock will not only destroy the nock, buy also might remove some wood along with it. (ask me how I know)
*The Bitz instructions tell you to rotate the indexing knob clockwise, Don't do this, as it turns your newly glued fletching right into the magnets (duh!) Rotate COUNTER-clockwise!
*While Bohning says you can remove the clamp after 5 minutes after adhesion when using Fletch-Tite, it's best to wait 20 minutes. Don't get in a hurry. Again; there is no fire. Go have a beer.
*Marco Snap-On nocks will drag on the nock index hole on the Bitz, You really have to push hard for proper seating.
Painted arrows definitely have the nostalgic look and feel for your older bow, and offer something out of the ordinary at the 3D range. I recommend everyone with woodies have at least a few!
Aim small, miss small!
- Shadowhntr
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Re: Painted arrows
Been there too, I got away from Marco for that very reason. Many nocks with an index will also fit poorly in the Bitz, yet I love indexing nocks.Captainkirk wrote:*If shaft weight uniformity is critical, pay very close attention to how much paint you apply. You can fine-tune weight by adding a layer of paint.
Yup...that goes for clear coating too. I can dial my shafts in pretty darn close by using the weight of the lacquer. I get anywhere between 10gr and 20gr per coat...depending on layer number and how fast I pull up through my gasket. Fast makes a thick (20gr) coat, slow makes a thinner (10gr) one. The more coats added, the better it clings to itself so also tends to add thickness with each layer. There can be issues of worn gasket holes i gotta be aware of too using this gasket wiper system but I love the thing. Writing everything down as I do it and as I experience it, helps me predict what I need to do for the up coming coat or batch of shafts. Because of all this info, I can also generally guess beforehand within 10gr-15gr of my final arrow weight before I even buy my shafts...provided I stay with the same shaft material and type (Douglas fir, 11/32", 10" nock end taper to 5/16"..or POC, 11/32" parallel... as for instance). I can then adjust/predict my TAW in relation with starting weight of the raw shafts. I have to do separate work sheets on the various shaft types and such I work with, although now I know approximately how much a nock end 10" taper takes out of the shaft weight, so that makes it easier to predict things without referring to paper. I know most won't think all this necessary, which it isnt...but it helps me predict my final weight which is important to me being very conscious and proactive concerning FOC and mass weight.
*If using Super Glue for nock adhesion, make absolutely sure they are where you want them because removing a Super-glued nock will not only destroy the nock, buy also might remove some wood along with it. (ask me how I know)
Yes, and even Duco can damage the wood if you don't very carefully shave off the nock
*The Bitz instructions tell you to rotate the indexing knob clockwise, Don't do this, as it turns your newly glued fletching right into the magnets (duh!) Rotate COUNTER-clockwise!
LOL
*While Bohning says you can remove the clamp after 5 minutes after adhesion when using Fletch-Tite, it's best to wait 20 minutes. Don't get in a hurry. Again; there is no fire. Go have a beer.
Very true....I like to wait 30 minutes. You have to make sure though that none has spilled over on both clamp and feather quill.
*Marco Snap-On nocks will drag on the nock index hole on the Bitz, You really have to push hard for proper seating.
I like to use very slim built indexing nocks, and is one big reason I went to tapered (nock end) shafts. That allows me to use the smaller 5/16" nocks instead of 11/32" and fit better in the bitz. I still have to carefully shave a tiny bit off the index at times.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.